Oh what an incredible trip we had. New Orleans is such a wonderful, fun, beautiful town. Oh the food! Oh the music! Oh the drinking on the street! We stayed at the Ritz Carlton in the French Quarter which is the happenin' place to be. We were right at the end of Bourbon St. so we got to walk through all the drunk college students every time we left the hotel. It's a funny town, it's so beautiful and historic, and completely sleezy at the same time. Huh.
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Friday, 12/26
I was leaving from Manchester, NH and Bill from Pittsburgh. We both had layovers at Philly and met up in the airport there. While waiting for the Philly --> NOLA flight we go to talking to this amazing woman who lived in NOLA for 7 years and she told us the best places to go. The best advice from her, "buy a drink on Bourbon St. so you have the experience and then leave it there."
We arrived and checked into the hotel around 5:00ish. The hotel is really posh! Bill opened his presents and then we had dinner at a place called Petunia's. I had ribs, Bill had creole catfish.
We wandered around the Quarter for a while and went into Mango Mango, these alcoholic beverage shops up and down Bourbon St, mostly targeted at the underage set. I got a hurricane, because apparently that's what you drink in NOLA. Bill got some bright green thing. $14 for both. We take 3 sips of our drinks and realize they are nothing more than alcoholic slurpies. Bleck! We threw them out, they were bloody awful. So that was our drink on Bourbon St, and believe me, it was well worth leaving there. In the trash.
We then wandered into the Jazz Parlor which would become our hangout for 3 of the nights we were there. We listened to Jerry Embree who was excellent, and Rooster who was also excellent, but I imagine his schtick wears thin really fast.
Saturday, 12/27 - My Birthday!
Happy birthday to me! Happy birthday to me!
I woke up and opened my presents. In addition to this fabulous trip, Bill also got me a Swarovski (sp?) crystal to hang on the window so the cats could chase the rainbows. Alexia got me a "Bill Doll" - he's the perfect man, he says all the right things: "You know, I'm not sure which way to go. I'll just pull in here, and ask for directions." or "Here honey, you take the remote. What we watch isn't important as long as we're together."
We had brunch at Dickie Brennan's Bourbon House. I had the southern breakfast, Bill had some sort of crab cakes which he said were phenomenal. We rounded out the meal with a glass of champagne for the birthday girl and some yummy bourbon.
Later, we had dinner at Emeril's NOLA restaurant which was one of the best meals of my whole life. The service was exceptional, and the wine we had - Katherine Kennedy Lateral - was superb. Oh, and the even put a candle in my praline cheesecake for me too. Bam! I had the grilled double cut pork chop, and Bill had the salmon roasted on a cedar plank served over mussels.
Afterward, we went back to the Ritz and relaxed in the lounge while Karin Williams, a talented jazz singer, performed with a small 3-piece band.
Sunday, 12/28
We stayed in the hotel and went to Jazz brunch. They had quite the spread - fresh oysters, sushi bar, things I could actually eat, dessert bar and free flowing champagne. The food was just exceptional, and the live jazz trio was terrific. We hung out there for several hours just enjoying the food, music and bubbly.
Afterwards we just puttered around the Quarter, I bought Alexia some trinkets. We had dinner at this totally skanky divey Mexican place. Ew. But hey, we didn't get sick so I consider it a success.
That night we went to the 544 Club on Bourbon St which was an interesting experience. The band was great, but there was a young 20-something girl that was dancing like a stripper on the dance floor. In her defense she was rather good, but I can only assume she's a professional so that is to be expected. But the real prize goes to the guy we have dubbed "The Pedophile" - he was this balding, average looking middle-aged looser who kept hanging out with The Stripper and her friends though it was quite clear they thought he was a looser and kept ignoring him. When The Stripper Bunch would go dance he'd go dance with them, and at one point there was no one on the dance floor and he was on the ground doing laps as if in a swimming pool. Looser!
Then we went down the street to another club and heard Marva Wright sing who is just an absolutely exceptional blues performer, though her CDs don't seem to do her justice. She sings with the soul and energy of a true professional, but the rawness of a human who has lived through hard times.
Monday, 12/29
Cold and rainy day, the temperature was in the 50's and overall damp and nasty. Bill woke up with a terrible sore throat. My back was hurting and I was grumpy.
We went and had breakfast at Cafe du Monde, an establishment famous for it's chicory coffee and beignets. And I must say, I am STILL craving those beignets...oh they were so good (beignets are essentially fried dough with powdered sugar).
We wandered around the upper section of the Quarter for the day. For lunch we went to Central Grocery and had a genuine Muffaletta - a sandwich on thick Italian bread similar to foccacia with ham, salami, provolone and an olive tapenade. Oh it was sooo wonderful.
For dinner we ate at the Olde N'Awlins Cookery, a place that advertisers "go where the locals go" and that they feature real New Orleans cuisine. I must say, I was very impressed. Good down home food at a reasonable price. The waiter wasn't terribly friendly with me though. I had peach glazed chicken with real dirty rice (which contains liver, so I didn't eat it) and Bill had alligator soup (tastes like chewy chicken!) and red snapper. We had crepes for dessert.
We headed over to the Funky Butt who Alexia said we had to go to. The place is very small inside, and very very smokey. After we hung out for 20 minutes they wanted an $8 cover so we decided to leave since neither of us thought we would last much longer in the small smokey bar.
Afterward we headed back to the Jazz Parlor for more $10 martinis. The place was packed so we shared a table with a nice 30-something couple from Hartford. We saw the clarinet guy perform who was just fabulous. Half way through the set the Hartford couple left, and we realized that they stuck us with their check. Bastards! Though I honestly think they just spaced and it wasn't out of ill intent. The waitress was nice and didn't charge us, so we left her a nice tip.
Tuesday, 12/30
It was cold again, but clear out. I woke up with a sore throat, Bill was even sicker. We had brunch at the River's Edge Restaurant which was ok but not great. A major damper was put on the meal by the older couple at a neighboring table who chain smoked throughout their meal. New Orleans, if you didn't know, is a smoker's paradise - you can smoke *everywhere* and they don't have mandatory separate sections in restaurants which is the part that bothered me, so every meal you can count on being bombarded by smoke.
But I digress. We wandered around the upper-Quarter some more. We had reservations at the New Orleans School of Cooking. On our way there Bill fell prey to the New Orleans shoe shine scam.
The New Orleans School of Cooking was tons of fun! I didn't really learn anything new - I already know how to make a roux thanks to many faithful years of Emeril watching, but it was well worth it. Ann, the instructor was great with her stories and jokes of living in New Orleans, and her assistant Maurice was a hoot. Bill got picked as an audience assistant to toast sesame seeds. Yay Bill! Unfortunately I had killed the batteries in the camera so did get any pictures. We were served gumbo, muffaletta pasta and pralines. Yum! Even better, we sat at a table full of Canadians. Yay, eh?
That evening we went on a Ghost Tour which was just OK. It was fun, but I had hoped for more. We saw some famous haunted sites of New Orleans - church with a ghost priest, haunted convent, Richard Simmon's house when he was a kid - and went to a location where a murder took place. At the end of the tour we wound up at this goth club. There was a drunk guy in the tour group who peed in the bathroom sink. What's wrong with people??
Afterwards we ate dinner at Irene's which was a recommendation from the cool airport lady. The food was just fabulous. We then headed back to the Jazz Parlor to hear Marva Wright sing again.
Wednesday, 12/31
At this point it was clear Bill was developing the dreaded flu that was going around. Poor guy. But what a trooper he was - took some Dayquil and went about the day and hardly complained despite having a nasty fever.
Spur of the moment we decided to have lunch at Emeril's, the original restaurant. I had the Grilled Niman Ranch Pork Chop and Homemade Boudin Sausage while Bill enjoyed the New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp. For dessert we shared the Homemade Mascarpone Cheese Filled Crepes with orange sauce which was out of this world. A month later I am sitting here craving that delectable orange sauce. Their pastry chef is a genius.
Eating at NOLA and Emeril's were different experiences. I think the entrees we had were much better at NOLA though I liked the dessert significantly more at Emeril's. Also, I think hands down the service at NOLA was better - it was very good at Emeril's too. But, our waitress at Emeril's did mesh well with me. As soon as we finished our dessert she abruptly swept away our plates and handed us the check. I dunno, I realize they need to clear the tables and all, but there was something about her manner. When you pay $60 for lunch I guess I expect not feel like I'm being shoved out the door in a totally passive aggressive manner. I thought the interior design of Emeril's was far superior to NOLA - it was amazing, and very currently and trendy. NOLA was very clear it had been decorated 7 years ago. At Emeril's they had nice finishing touches - a wall with holes drilled in that housed random wine corks, photographs of the staff lacquered onto the bathroom tiles, etc. NOLA was nice - don't get me wrong - but it didn't have quite the same trendy she-she design that many trend-setting fine dining restaurant today have.
Afterwards we took the trolley over to the Garden District where Anne Rice, Trent Reznor and other filthy rich people live. Oh the houses were so phenomenally beautiful I couldn't help squealing the whole time we were there. These gorgeous large Victorian's with lush gardens and intricate wrought iron fences guarding the properties. We come upon the most beautiful house I have ever seen in my life, and on the curb we the most amazing trees ever. I'm stunned and in awe as I witness its beauty. And then Bill says to me "So, apparently this is Anne Rice's house." Ah, that explains it. Oh it's just beautiful. Nice work Anne!
We wandered around some more, and I really wanted to see Trent Reznor's house since he's on my list and I wanted to stalk him. But we didn't know where it was. Who could I call who has internet access and wouldn't want to stay on the phone for more than 5 minutes? Ah! I'll call my old boyfriend Patrick. And so I did. A quick Google search turned up Trent's address so we headed over and snapped some photos. Yay!
Bill was feeling ill, and I killed the batteries in the camera (again) so we headed back to the hotel in late afternoon. Bill was burning up with fever and just couldn't get warm so I drew him a bath and stuck him in the tub. Being 6'5" he didn't fit very well, so I grabbed a hotel glass and basted him with the warm water to keep him toasty. Poor guy.
But trooper though he is, he popped some more Sudafed and we went out for dinner at the N'Awlins Cookery again. Bill stuck with soup and salad and I had blackened chicken over pasta. We had this adorable waiter from Mt. Vernon, NY which is near where I grew up. He was so sweet and kind, and you could tell he was trying hard to do well. Upon his suggestion we had the most wonderful bread pudding for dessert. I got my bottle of cheap champagne and we walked down Bourbon St through the sea of drunken college students back to our hotel. We watched Dick Clark. I got drunk while Bill got the flu. We watched the ball drop and went to sleep.
Thursday, 1/1
The end of our journey. We checked out of our hotel and went to the airport early since Bill was so sick (and I wasn't feeling too hot either). We had MSG-laden Chinese in the airport and hung out and watched the planes come in and out. Interestingly, Southwest flight come in and leave 20 minutes later, while all other airlines had at least twice that amount of time between flights. One reason who Southwest is so successful.
During our connection in Philly we had a quick dinner at Cibo Bistro and Wine in the airport which was surprisingly good. Bill got onto his flight to Logan and I onto my flight to Manchester.
I had hired a car to drive me to and from the airport. My driver on the way home was a very nice woman, and we got to talking. Turns out she grew up in Stamford, CT and we both went to the same high school, though different years. Le Petit World!
Summary:
A good time was had by all. New Orleans is amazing. The food and music is inspiring. Never have I had such a wonderful vacation. Thanks so much to Bill for not only going with me but for making the whole trip possible.